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Tag: demolition

Our least favourite problem

No aspect of the project is easy, but the floors, so far, are our least favourite problem. Our ideal home would be well insulated, with underfloor heating on the ground floor. This would result in a nice, even, well-distributed warmth throughout both the kitchen and lounge (which is currently a garage).

Most sources seem to agree on a subfloor consisting of: 100mm hard-core, 50mm blinding sand, damp-proof membrane, 100mm concrete, about 100mm insulation and 50-75mm screed. Then you need to install flooring on top of that – let’s say minimum 20mm. This all adds up to at least 420mm. Every single person we have mentioned this value to since starting this project has said “Really? That’s a LOT!”. So began our gradual realisation that not every question can be answered by the internet.

Our structural engineer wanted to see how deep the stone walls went into the ground and advised us to dig to the depths we’d need for the floor against a wall. So we started in the kitchen. And hallelujah, stone down all the way in a 42cm deep hole. The structural engineer did give us a few pointers to minimise the depth a little, which would save us some money on the digging out and replacing, without compromising the structural strength. Our plan was a goer. So we continued ahead with other jobs and planning.

Stone sweet stone

The builder still suggested that the total depth suggested was deeper than should be required and offered suggestions of less hard-core and less sand – maybe even no concrete. We’d have to run these by building control and the structural engineer of course.

We had been thinking that digging exploration holes in the garage/lounge would be a good plan as we believe it was built later than the rest of the house, so perhaps had a different structure. But other jobs got in the way, and the garage was being used as storage until the shed could be cleared.

We were fairly confident about the wall depth though. Having been built later, surely building standards are always improving, and no one would have thought to build a retaining wall with no foundation below the inside ground level. We were wrong.

Holes in the garage/lounge floor – horizontal yellow chalk line shows the approximate height of the floor on the other side

Yep, that’s mud/gravel under our granite stone walls – queue worried calls to the structural engineer and building control. Thankfully both confirmed that the lesser depth of hard-core and sand was ok. However, the structural engineer also informed us that we would have to underpin the inner walls should we dig down in the garage, as originally planned.

“Underpinning” is a word no home-owner wants to hear. It’s an expensive last resort, and a permanent blot on the building’s record that may put off future buyers (and must be disclosed). At this point it felt like the house was laying traps for us, fighting us every step of the way.

oh no pain GIF by It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia

So new decisions have to be made. This plan is clearly going to require careful negotiation between building control, the structural engineer, building costs, and the house itself, all mediated by us. Thankfully, Ethan doesn’t mind making phone calls too much – I am really not a fan – and thankfully he’s also been managing to put up with me sitting next to him whispering additional details at him halfway through these phone calls.

And now the fear has set in. Did we just HAPPEN to dig against the one wall in the kitchen that continues into the ground? We had chosen one of the non-retaining walls, as suggested by the structural engineer. This was chosen as we were all fairly confident that for a retaining wall to have, well, remained and retained, it must have had some amount of footings underground – but this particular assumption has gone the way of the proverbial in the garage/lounge.

This image has an empty alt attribute; its file name is worry.gif

Before this, we had been considering a step down into the garage/lounge from the kitchen/diner. This would leave the new window (in place of the garage door, but re-using the existing lintel), at a height in the wall similar to the windows in the kitchen. Now, if we want to avoid underpinning, we will need to have a step up instead. The mathematically-inclined amongst you will note that that totals two steps’ difference, resulting in the bottom of the lounge window being approximately 50cm from the floor. Worse, the top would be below eye level when stood up (even for us!), and the ceiling will be pretty low.

It’s possible that we could save some height by not having underfloor heating, but again the internet is refusing to tell me exactly how much – too many variables!

But, it’s a stone cottage. It’s a living room. How much time do you really spend stood up in your living room? And we’ll end up with an absurdly low window a lovely window seat! If building control will allow the ceiling height, then what a cosy room it could be.

Just How Big is Bag End? : ohnotheydidnt — LiveJournal

We’ll have to do more exploring in the weeks to come. We’ll let you know what the final plan ends up being… if we ever get one.

Rub-a-dub-dub, we’ll live in a tub

When we bought the house, we already had clues that damp was a problem in the house. We found rotting floor at the foot of the stairs, flaking paint behind the Welsh dresser, and bubbling reveals around the kitchen window. The question was: how bad was it, and what could be done?

Now that we’ve owned the house for a month, we’ve seen the extent to which water permeates this house. Much of the water is coming in above ground level, and can be blamed on the fact that the pointing on the outside has been left to deteriorate, to the point that there are many holes where water can easily get into the walls. Worse, it’s particularly bad on the West and South-West facing walls, where the wind is usually coming from, and therefore also the rain. This is an obvious area for improvement, but keep us completely dry.

Upstairs bedroom wall with water on the inside
Plug socket in the west facing wall with droplets of water inside

Below ground, much more thought is needed. The sellers told us that the building had remained a smithy until some time in the 70s; until then, the building had a stream running through it for the purposes of quenching and cooling. This stream had been contained by putting a pipe under the floor to send the water out by the front door. However, when the council re-tarmaced the road, this pipe was blocked, and the problem returned.

They then dug down outside at the back of the property, lined the external walls with slate tiles, and put a drain and pipe outside to direct the water into the drain in the garage, with a pipe leading somewhere out the front of the garage.

So we thought, OK, this hasn’t worked fully. But we have options, as no measures have been taken inside the walls. We had ruled out digging down outside to let the walls breath: we don’t own all of the land that meets our walls; and an existing higher-level retaining wall not too far from our garden would mean any retaining wall that we built would need to be very strong indeed.

With outside measures out of the question, we plan to fully tank the inside of the downstairs walls. One possible method is to cover the interior walls in a waterproof slurry, preventing the water from entering the inside of the house – for a time. It would trap the water in the walls, and the water would build up with no way for the pressure to be relieved. This would end in at least one of three ways: the wall itself would end up damaged by the constant pressure and move; the slurry would eventually give in to this pressure and leak; or the water would force its way up, and around our walls, causing dampness in other areas of the house. Water always wins.

We had many conversations with those with more experience than us, knowing that we wanted a solution that would keep the house dry for many years. A method that may achieve this is to let water and gravity get their way – on our terms. The basis of the method is to attach a cavity membrane to the wall allowing the water to escape the wall and work its way down to a perforated pipe installed below the indoor floor level. This pipe would direct the water towards a suitable exit. With the house being on a hill, gravity will do the work and no pump should be needed. It will require careful planning, but avoids reliance on man-made barriers resisting hydrostatic pressure; it should be low-maintenance and last a very long time.

After getting a professional damp-proofing company to quote for the work, and discovering the cost would be an enormous percentage of our total budget, we decided that we would have to do the work ourselves.

This is where we finally had our first stroke of real luck! Within a couple of days, we found a local person selling a large quantity of various damp proofing materials, including cavity wall membrane. And best of all, they were selling it cheap! We discovered that the seller had run a damp proofing company, but was shutting his business down. He offered to come and take a look at the house, and ended up giving us very detailed instructions of how we should go about installing the membranes and drains. Lots of notes were taken.

Stripping the house back to bare stone walls and exploring the existing floor was the next step. While removing the brick walls and digging up floors, we found that something similar to our method had been employed and had since, evidently, failed; not very encouraging. However, the plastic sheeting we found was very minimally supported, and thus had crumpled under its own weight, so perhaps the cavity membrane would improve the situation.

Crumpled plastic sheeting behind brick wall

We also found a small section of pipe leading out of the kitchen wall, some guttering (covered by bricks – what else?) and a thin strip of damp proof membrane placed on top, leading to the drain in the garage. We found that there was no drainage at all where the bottom of the stairs had sat. Pools of water form in this area – not surprising that the bottom of the stairs was completely rotten. After it has rained for a couple of days in a row, water flowing out of the wall is visible in this location, even forming little whirlpools as it flows.

Brick on a gutter

The concrete floor was also substandard. The thickness varies quite substantially across the room – in some places only couple of centimetres thick – not ideal. In others, you can see the damp proof membrane peeking up through the concrete, meaning it could have very easily been damaged. Where the stairs had sat, there is no sign of damp proof membrane or concrete. If there ever has been anything, it has disintegrated and all that is left is essentially mud.

As it rains more and more we are carefully watching the walls for problem areas. It’s reassuring that where most of the damp problems were originally visible, the previous owners had done the worst job applying the technique we plan to use. It explains the extent of the problem, and gives us a clear area to make improvements. So, provided we manage to install a drain around all the underground parts of the wall, properly membrane both the wall and floors, and don’t provide any plaster bridges around these membranes – we SHOULD end up with a nice stream-free home. Not too much to ask?

In summary, we’re building a house-sized plastic boat inside our house, and putting a drain around it.